A hair system (also known as non-surgical
hair replacement, hair bonding or hair integration process)
by any other name is a wig, toupee, hairpiece, appliance,
weave or, to use the vernacular, a "rug". A
source of great amusement to the fully haired, and the
butt of a million bad jokes, the male wearer of a wig
often lives in a constant state of low level paranoia
and anxiety about his public discovery and subsequent
humiliation. For some men and women, however, a hair system
is a viable alternative to confronting the world in a
state of balding.
Women seem to have been dealt a better hand than men when
it comes to wigs. Society is more accepting of females
altering their appearance in general: makeup, cosmetic
surgeries, Botox, hair coloring, and the use of wigs.
Indeed, there is a certain glamour associated with singers
and actresses changing their hair to reflect a changing
personality. Be that as it may, it has been a slow process
for our current culture to accept "hair systems"
as an option for balding men.
Now, however, this method has permeated our common lexicon
("I’m not only the Hair Club president, I’m
also a client!"). So let us discuss the wigmaker’s
art, the types of systems, and the strengths and drawbacks
of "borrowed hair".
The materials used are of two main types: real hair and
synthetic hair. There are currently no synthetics that
rival real human hair; it simply lacks the natural texture,
feel and look of real hair. Of the sources of human hair,
most is Asian, but European hair is more highly prized.
Asian hair tends to be more coarse, and, when dyed to
match the wearer’s shade, tends to look even more
so. Also, unless it is used in a full wig, there may be
more difficulty matching with the person’s existing
hair.
Many wigs and hairpieces are mass-produced, and these
tend to be of lower quality than hand-made pieces. A few
wigs are still custom made by fine artisans, with multiple
fittings for the client, much like a fine tailored suit
of clothes. Obviously, with such a range of quality, there
is a corresponding price range, and hairpieces can be
purchased costing from a few hundred dollars to five thousand
or more, depending on hair type and construction. Maintenance
is also an issue, and most clients choose to purchase
at least two wigs, so that one can always be worn when
one is returned to the maker for maintenance.
All wig construction begins with a foundation of fabric
or synthetic material. Many are sewn into fine mesh-like
or "lace" foundations. Others are made using
polymer bases that are promoted as "like a second
skin". The quality here also varies, as it does according
to the skill with which the weaving is done. A finely
crafted piece will honor the normal directionality, that
is, the angles at which hair normally emerges from the
scalp; this is of great importance in hair transplantation,
and will be covered in detail later.
Regardless of the type of foundation used, all hairpieces,
with the exception of full wigs, must be attached to the
head. This is accomplished in a variety of ways, including
clips, tapes and bonding agents. These all have their
advantages and disadvantages, and the choice has much
to do with the size and shape of the piece and the personal
preference of the wearer.
Clips are the easiest for getting the piece off and on;
the downside is they can cause traction alopecia from
the constant pulling force on the existing hair they are
clipped to. Adhesive tapes are easy, but leave sticky
residue on the hairpiece that requires cleaning and may
prematurely age the appliance. There are also systems
that are bonded to the scalp (temporarily) using adhesives,
usually applied to a polymer (type of plastic) foundation.
Sometimes these systems are marketed as "non-surgical
hair implantation" because the plastic has hairs
imbedded into it.
Hair weaves are another method, by which the foundation
fabric of a hairpiece is woven to the client’s existing
hair. This affords the wearer good stability; however,
as is the case with the "bonded" systems, they
become loose as the underlying hair that remains grows
out. Then, the client must return to the office for maintenance.
This re-tightening or re-bonding must be done about every
month, usually for a fee. Incidentally, many hair restoration
surgeons feel that prolonged wearing of wigs and systems
may accelerate the process of hair loss, probably through
a variety of mechanisms.
Many men chose to use a hairpiece rather than undergoing
surgical hair transplantation because of the latter’s
cost. However, when we calculate a lifetime of periodic
purchases of hairpieces (they do wear out!), the need
to have two or more pieces available, the periodic maintenance,
and, for many systems, monthly maintenance and/or re-tightening
charges that may range from $100 to over $500, the cost
obviously adds up. Hair transplantation, on the other
hand, provides a permanent growth of natural hair from
the patient’s own head, and this may require only
one procedure for a lifetime. Some men have such advanced
baldness and such limited "donor" hair, that
a hairpiece is a good option. Only a consultation with
a physician specializing in hair restoration can help
the balding patient make a truly educated decision.
